Projects Kitchen Cabinets PAINT A HOUSE Your Guide To Do-It-Yourself Home Painting

CABINETS

There are several possible CONDITIONS that could exist for Painting Kitchen Cabinets, and you must decide which CONDITION suits your particular situation and then follow the Proceedure outlined for that CONDITION!

To Paint Kitchen Cabinets that are made of real wood and have never been Painted before:
- Leave the Cabinet Doors hanging, it is not necessary to remove them
- Remove any Handles, Hooks or other Hardware
- Cover counter tops and floor with Dropcloths
- Clean off any Grease with a rag and Lacquer Thinner
- Using a Pigmented Shellac Stain Sealer (available at Home Depoe or Sherwin Williams) Give the Cabinets and Doors a Primer coat, making sure the Stain Sealer completely "covers" the wood surfaces (use two coats if necessary)
- Now Caulk all visible cracks along moldings etc. and Spackle or Putty any other holes or "defects" that need it
- Now using more Pigmented Shellac Stain Sealer, "Spot in" any Spackled areas
- Give a "Light Sanding" using Fine Grade Sandpaper to all surfaces
- Now you can Paint the Cabinets and Doors using the Proper Tools but always use a Sheen Finish, like Semi-Gloss or Gloss... Brush in areas, and use a Roller for the Door Faces and other wide areas... use a "Dry Roller" to tighten up the stipple after the Paint has set-up for about 15 min...
- Some Hinges can effectively be Painted over (provided they were Stain Sealed first) but others must be Brushed Around, the decision is up to you!
- Keep Doors in an open position while drying, ...after 24 hours replace all hardware, and for the next TWO WEEKS while the Paint Cures, keep hand contact to a minimum

To Paint Kitchen Cabinets that are made of real wood and have been Painted before:
- Leave the Cabinet Doors hanging, it is not necessary to remove them
- Remove any Handles, Hooks or other Hardware
- Cover counter tops and floor with Dropcloths
- Clean off any Grease with a rag and Lacquer Thinner
- Scrape off any loose Paint
- Now Caulk all visible cracks along moldings etc. and Spackle or Putty any other holes or "defects" that need it, and Spackle the edges of Paint that remains after Scraping off loose Paint
- Now using Pigmented Shellac Stain Sealer, "Spot in" any Spackled areas, or bare wood areas
- Give a "Light Sanding" using Fine Grade Sandpaper to all surfaces
- Now you can Paint the Cabinets and Doors using the Proper Tools but always use a Sheen Finish, like Semi-Gloss or Gloss... Brush in areas, and use a Roller for the Door Faces and other wide areas... use a "Dry Roller" to tighten up the stipple after the Paint has set-up for about 15 min...
- Some Hinges can effectively be Painted over (provided they were Stain Sealed first) but others must be Brushed Around, the decision is up to you!
- Keep Doors in an open position while drying, ...after 24 hours replace all hardware, and for the next TWO WEEKS while the Paint Cures, keep hand contact to a minimum

To Paint Kitchen Cabinets that are made of real wood but have a Formica Finish:
- Leave the Cabinet Doors hanging, it is not necessary to remove them
- Remove any Handles, Hooks or other Hardware
- Cover counter tops and floor with Dropcloths
- Clean off any Grease with a rag and Lacquer Thinner
- Now Caulk all visible cracks along moldings etc. and Spackle or Putty any other holes or "defects" that need it
- Now using Pigmented Shellac Stain Sealer, Prime all surfaces that will be Painted
- After the Stain Sealer drys (about 1/2 hour) give all surfaces a second coat of the Stain Sealer
- Give a "Light Sanding" using Fine Grade Sandpaper to all surfaces
- Now you can Paint the Cabinets and Doors using the Proper Tools but always use a Sheen Finish, like Semi-Gloss or Gloss... Brush in areas, and use a Roller for the Door Faces and other wide areas... use a "Dry Roller" to tighten up the stipple after the Paint has set-up for about 15 min...
- Some Hinges can effectively be Painted over (provided they were Stain Sealed first) but others must be Brushed Around, the decision is up to you!
- Keep Doors in an open position while drying, ...after 24 hours replace all hardware, and for the next TWO WEEKS while the Paint Cures, keep hand contact to a minimum

To Paint Kitchen Cabinets that are made of some other material besides wood (perhaps Plastic or Metal):
- Leave the Cabinet Doors hanging, it is not necessary to remove them
- Remove any Handles, Hooks or other Hardware
- Cover counter tops and floor with Dropcloths
- Clean off any Grease with a rag and Lacquer Thinner
- Scrape off any loose Paint
- Now Caulk all visible cracks along moldings etc. and Spackle or Putty any other holes or "defects" that need it, and Spackle edges of Paint that remained after scraping
- Now using Pigmented Shellac Stain Sealer, Prime all surfaces that will be Painted
- After the Stain Sealer drys (about 1/2 hour) give all surfaces a second coat of the Stain Sealer
- Give a "Light Sanding" using Fine Grade Sandpaper to all surfaces
- Now you can Paint the Cabinets and Doors using the Proper Tools but always use a Sheen Finish, like Semi-Gloss or Gloss... Brush in areas, and use a Roller for the Door Faces and other wide areas... use a "Dry Roller" to tighten up the stipple after the Paint has set-up for about 15 min...
- Some Hinges can effectively be Painted over (provided they were Stain Sealed first) but others must be Brushed Around, the decision is up to you!
- Keep Doors in an open position while drying, ...after 24 hours replace all hardware, and for the next TWO WEEKS while the Paint Cures, keep hand contact to a minimum

Doors---Baths

tip Instead of pouring solvent directly onto your Hands for Cleaning-Up... pour it onto a RAG then use the RAG to clean-up your hands! [read all the tips]

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