We are asked many questions from time to time, and so we decided to
list the most common ones here with the answers, for you to read and learn from! NOTE: We'll
be ADDING MORE questions continuously, so please check back! If you have a Question, please
use the Form on our Ask Questions Page ...Perhaps YOUR
question may appear here!
NOTE: We act as a Consultant, on another painting website (House Painting Info)... our "handle" is "Magic Dave"... you can read our answers and contributions at that site by Clicking Here
You should also read our Tips-Hints Page
and our Glossary for more help...
Sherwin Williams Pro F.A.Q. or Sherwin Williams Homeowner's Painting F.A.Q.
or Sherwin Williams Homeowner's Staining F.A.Q.
- Question #1: We heard that there are products available that will both Prime and Paint in One Step... Should we use these products to save time?
Do NOT be fooled into buying products that claim to do priming and finish coating in one application! These products are just GIMMICKS to steal your money... priming must always be done in a separate step using a high grade product... then follow up with your finish coat!!!!
- Question #2: We have some woodwork that is currently stained
and varnished and we would like to paint it. Can we just paint over it or is there some
procedure that we must do first?
Before you paint ANY stained and varnished woodwork ...including Doors or Kitchen Cabinets, you must prime it
(undercoat it) with a Primer-Sealer! I recommend using a Pigmented Shellac Primer Sealer,
because it drys much faster and seals better... Try BIN Primer Sealer (Pigmented Shellac)
available at Sherwin Williams or Home Depoe! If you don't do this, the resin in the varnish
will cause any paint to peel and discolor! Even painting two coats will not work! You must
seal it first!!!
- Question #3: I am painting my walls and I don't want to get
paint on the woodwork by the door. Should I tape it with masking tape or what?
Learn how to Brush Properly and you will not need to mask
anything with tape! Taping is only necessary if you have an area that cannot be "safely"
Brushed without getting paint onto the adjoining area!
- Question #4: I have a ceiling that has that "pop-corn-type"
finish and I want to roll a coat of paint on it. What is the best way to do this?
A "Pop-Corn" or more properly called "Flock-Finished" surface can easily be painted IF it was
once painted BEFORE! But if it has never been painted since the original application, it is
very MESSY and DIFFICULT to paint with a roller because the flocking material easily comes
off into the paint and creates a difficult task for rolling! So the best way to paint it is
by SPRAYING, using an air-less method and covering all other areas of the room and walls! See our Section On Spraying for more help...
Question #5: How can I paint a paneled wall?
Painting paneling requires that first, it must be sealed with a Primer-Sealer! We always
use a Pigmented Shellac Primer Sealer because it drys faster and seals better! If you don't
do this the paint will not bond properly and will peel off down the road!
- Question #6: What is the difference between Spackle and Joint Compound?
Spackle is used for smaller repairs, like holes, cracks etc. ...whereas Joint Compound is used
for larger repairs like drywall additions... Joint Compound takes considerably LONGER to dry
and usually requires more Spackling afterwards to "smooth over" the finer spots!
- Question #7: I rolled the ceiling and after it dried, there
are roller lap marks in several places... what can I do to fix this?
If your first attempt at rolling leaves roller lap marks after drying, you need to SAND down the roller lap marks with COARSE sand paper wrapped around a block
of wood (block sanding) and then re-roll the entire ceiling again, but do it as instructed
here on our page about ROLLING ... it takes a lot of
PRACTICE to get the technique down pat!
- Question #8: How do I protect interior painted or varnished
woodwork from excessive water contact, say like in a shower area?
To protect interior painted surfaces like woodwork from excessive water contact, like woodwork
in a shower area, you must always use a Pigmented Shellac Undercoater before painting, and
then use either an Epoxy Paint or an Exterior House Paint (oil-base) for the finish coat! For
Varnished surfaces use a SPAR Varnish (two coats) for water protection! In either case you
absolutely MUST allow a full TWO WEEKS for CURING before subjecting the surfaces to water contact!
- Question #9: We are Painting our Bathroom, and we want to know if there is any special treatment necessary?
To protect interior painted surfaces like Bathrooms from normal contact from water or steam, you
must always use a Pigmented Shellac Undercoater before painting, and then you
absolutely MUST allow a full TWO WEEKS after the Finish Coat is applied for CURING, before subjecting the surfaces to water or steam contact!
- Question #10: We have Stained some wood and it turned out darker than we wanted... is there any way we can lighten-up the stain?
Once you Stain an unfinished wood surface, you cannot "lighten-up" the color of the Stain... you can only darken it with a darker color Stain... assuming that you have not yet applied any Varnish or Sealers to the surface! However you CAN use a Stripper Or Refinisher Product, and (following the label directions), REMOVE the Stain... then after a light sanding, you can Re-Stain using a lighter Stain...
- Question #11: The previous owners painted our tub and sink and we are having a hard time removing the old paint... can you help?
Removing the old paint from a previously painted tub or sink can be done by using steel wool dipped in Lacquer Thinner OR by using a Paint & Varnish Remover... however chances are when you finish you will want to Re-Paint the surfaces... We have a page explaining what to do in this situation: Bathtubs Sinks Etc.
Learn how to use
Pigmented Shellac Stain Sealer-Primer... it kills stains better, undercoats wood surfaces
better, and drys much faster for quick second coating! [read all the tips]
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